For the next two posts, Iām focusing on Thanksgiving, hands down, my favourite meal of the year. This post will focus on dessert and the next will be on turkey, because IMO, these are the elements of the meal that require the most thought. Everything else ā from cranberry sauce to mashed potatoes ā is a given.
Like everything on the harvest table, Thanksgiving desserts should reflect the season, and thatās why pumpkin pie is a must. Since pears are in season now and apples are also at their peak, an apple or pear pie would work, but I prefer pecan. We donāt produce pecans here in Quebec, but they are harvested in the southern United States from September to November, which explains why pecan pie is so popular for American Thanksgiving. I like the odd nod to American Thanksgiving, and pecan pie is a lot better than marshmallow-topped sweet potatoes. I also find that those who turns their noses up at pumpkin pie, are always happy to opt for pecan.
That said, who the heck doesnāt like pumpkin pie? I may not be the biggest fan of savoury squash dishes, but pumpkin pie is daā bomb!
On its own, has a subtle flavour that cries out for help, but avoid the temptation to overdo it. Iāve made hundreds of pumpkin pies in my time and I believe itās a pie thatās best kept simple. A bit of spice, a splash of brandy, a tender crust and a spoonful of whipped cream and Bobās your uncle!
And itās a simple pie to make, the only big decision youāll face is whether to buy the pumpkin purĆ©e or make your own. Whatās the advantage of making it yourself? The pumpkin tends to have a gentler flavour, and can be made in just over half an hour. It will also set you back less than half the cost of canned.
Since pumpkin season is in full swing, now is the time to stock up for the winter. The small āSugarā pumpkins are what youāll need for pie, so when shopping for pumpkins, pick only ones that are firm and heavy. Make sure the stem is still on and avoid any with soft, spongy spots. Keep them in a cool, dry place and try to eat them within a week. A small sugar pumpkin will yield about three cups of cooked pumpkin, which can be sealed in plastic containers or Ziplock bags and frozen for months.
When it comes to preparing a pumpkin for cooking, peeling the raw fruit is close to impossible, so I suggest cutting it in four, removing the seeds and pulp, and steaming it for 20 minutes, or baking it at 400F (200C) for half an hour. This softens the flesh and makes the hard shell easy to remove. Pass the flesh through a food mill or purĆ©e in a blender or food processor and youāre done.
This is my preferred recipe for pumpkin pie, which I developed over the years and will be making this year as well. It is the one from my book, Chez Lesley (Make Every Dish Delicious) and itās one of those rare recipes that to me, requires no improvement.
Pumpkin Pie
Serves 10
When making the tart shell, be sure to patch any holes or cracks before baking as the filling could end up leaking out and cause everything to stick. This tart is best served at room temperature with whipped cream. You could do ice cream, but really it needs little in the way of enhancement. Be sure to use a pie plate or French tart ring that is 1 1/2-inches (4 cm) deep.
1 3/4 cups (395 g) pumpkin purƩe
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1/4 cup (50 g) brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ginger
2 eggs
1 cup (240 ml) whipping cream
1/2 cup (110 ml) milk
2 tablespoons Brandy, bourbon or whisky (but not a peaty whisky)
1, 9-inch, 1 1/2-inch deep tart shell made with pĆ¢te sucrĆ©e or pĆ¢te brisĆ©e
PĆ¢te brisĆ©e recipe: here
PĆ¢te sucrĆ©e recipe: here
Baking the crust: Preheat your oven to 375Āŗ F (180Āŗ C) and set the rack in the middle position. Line your chilled tart shell with parchment paper and baking beans (or weights) and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the edge of the shell begins to brown. Remove the paper and the beans and place the shell back in the oven for another 7 minutes or so, or until the base dough is cooked through. Set aside to cool slightly. Reduce your oven temperature to 350ĀŗF (180ĀŗC).
Make the filling: Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blitz at high speed for a minute until well blended.
Place your tart shell on a baking sheet and pour in the filling. With the back of a spoon, swirl to spread it evenly into the corners of the shell.
Bake for 45 minutes, or until the filling is set in the center and the edges just begin to rise. Let cool completely on a rack to room temperature before slicing.
Iāve also included my recipe for pecan pie, which is from my book, Un Week-End Chez Lesley, which will be coming out next fall in English.
This is hands down the best pecan pie Iāve ever tasted, and if you arenāt up to making it, you can buy a version of this tart at CafĆ© Bazin in Westmount here in Montreal. The recipe was from a book I wrote with chef Bertrand Bazin back in 2001, but then Bertrand perfected the recipe further. His pastry chef version is pretty complicated for the home baker, so I simplified it here. And if you like something even more delicious (or different) add 1 cup (170g) chopped semisweet chocolate (or chocolate chips) to the base of the tart along with the pecans.
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